Cast-in-Place Concrete Countertop Forms, Z-Counterforms.Profile Design: Full Bulnose. Other Profiles Available- click here to see all designs.Full Bulnose is also referred to as a Half Round profile.Creates a 2 1/4" height edge to the in-place concrete countertop.
Each box includes 8x 8' Countertop Forms (96 lineal feet), and 6x 8' Back-Wall pieces (48 lineal feet).Easy to set up and use, for both professional and DIY.- The Full Bulnose edge will create a tiny small lip at the top of the concrete, due to the thickness of the plastic form itself. If this is not desired, either polishing the finished concrete surface to remove it, or troweling the concrete surface down to just under the height of the countertop edge will remove the lip.
Application:
- These
Countertop Forms are designed to be attached to the cement board, which
is screwed onto the top of the cabinets. The Countertop Forms are
simply snapped off when the concrete is cured, leaving behind the
decorative edge countertop surface.
- Please watch the video below for a quick demonstration how to use the Forms:
- Step 1: Attach cement board (1/2" thickness size, from your local hardware store) to the top of the cabinetry.
- Step 2: Cut the Countertop Forms with a miter saw, and screw in place onto cement board. Use plenty of
screws to ensure the Forms stay in place and can't move when you snap
off the form later (once the concrete is cured). Tape the outside of each joint with duct tape to ensure a tight, waterproof joint.
- Step
3: Place Back-Wall pieces across the back of the countertop area (6
Back-Wall pieces (8' long each) are included with each box of Countertop
Forms. Back-Wall pieces have an 'L' shape to them, and can be screwed
down to the cement board. They create a back edge to allow a screed to
be run across the concrete, creating a smooth, flat countertop.
- Step 4: OPTIONAL- Cut a 2 5/8" hole in the cement board for each faucet hole needed, and insert the Cast-in-Place Faucet Knockouts (sold here in a 2-pack) into the hole.
- Step 5: OPTIONAL- Create a hole for a sink, if needed.
- For an under-mount style sink, cut a hole in the cement board to fit the sink into, use the Cast-in-Place Sink Form (sold here) to attach to the sink itself, and place the sink into the cement board.
- For a drop-in
style sinks or cook top stove drop-ins, the Back-Wall Pieces
can be used to create a square or rectangular area. Styrofoam can also
be used to create a knockout of any size or shape needed.
- Step 6:
Silicone all areas of the form where water could leak out. This
includes along the inside edge where the Forms are screwed to the cement
board, along the back wall, across joints in the cement board, and
around any sink knockouts.
- Step
7: Fill form with concrete. Pack the concrete into the Edge Form to
remove any large air pockets, and vibrate the Edge Form with a palm
sander or other vibration source. Poor vibration will result in a large
number of voids in the concrete edge- ranging from small pinholes to
larger pea sized holes. Sometimes this look is sought after, but if
it's not, make sure to vibrate well.
- Step
8: Allow concrete to cure (usually a few days). Remove and tape from
the joints. Sand off any excess concrete from the top corners (where
concrete meets the Countertop Forms) with a Diamond Sanding Foam Pad (sold here) or a Flexible Diamond Sanding Strip (sold here).
- Step
9: Remove Countertop Forms by simply pulling them away from the
concrete, which will snap the Edge Form off, leaving the concrete
countertop.
- Step
10: OPTIONAL- Polish concrete using diamond polishing pads.
Cast-in-Place concrete will usually have some unevenness to it, which
can be lightly polished off using Dry Polishing Pads (sold here), usually grits 50,100,200 is sufficient. If polishing down to expose more aggregate, consider using Wet Polishing Pads (sold here).
- Step 11: Any surface or edge pinholes and voids in the concrete can be filled with a Cement Slurry (sold here).
- Steps 12,13,14... Concrete can be stained (stains sold here) if desired. Concrete Countertop Sealers can be applied once the concrete is dry (sealers sold here).
FAQ:
Q. What are the Z-Counterforms made of?
A. Z-Counterforms are made of a proprietary mix of P.V.C.
Q. Will the Z-Counterforms warp from the concrete?
A. No, forms are approximately 3mm thick to ensure a stable form even after the concrete is poured.
Q. How do I make corners?
A. Corners are simply mitered with an ordinary miter box. Any angle can be easily achieved.
Q. Does concrete adhere to the Z-Counterform?
A. No,
concrete will not adhere to the inside of the Z-Counterform. The forms
are polished to a gloss finish so the concrete edge will mirror the form
when it is snapped off.
Q. Are Z-Counterforms re-useable?
A. No, because the tab under the concrete top stays in place when you snap off the Z-Counterform.
DuraSeam™ Liquid Membrane is a liquid
underlayment that prepares countertop substrates for cement overlay systems. 
